A Memorable Voyage along the River Saraswati in Gujarat

Yatris at Chotila- the place we halted for lunch on way to Somnath 

Param Pujya Swamiji at Sahastraling Talav - Rani-ki-vav, Anahilwad Patan 

P.P. Swamiji at the banks of River Hiranya, Prabhas Patan, Somnath 

Sapna Ullal (in blue) - the author of this article alongwith Yatris at Chotila 

A Memorable Voyage along the River Saraswati in Gujarat 

By PTSSY Yatri - Sapna Ullal (18 years) 

In October 2007, Param Pujya Swamiji visited Adi Badri, the Udgam Sthal of the River Saraswati along with a group of 250 Yatris. This was the initiating event of our Tercentenary Year. From 26^th – 31^st January 2009, we undertook the Prabhas Teerth Somnath Saraswati Yatra that traces the path of Saraswati in Gujarat right up to the Triveni Sangam, where she converges with the Sindhu Sagar. Thus during the Tercentenary Year, we have symbolically traversed the path of the Vedic Saraswati.    

From where does the word ‘Saraswat’ originate? Our forefathers resided on the banks of the River Saraswati and were nurtured by her. They came to be known as the sons of Saraswati or the ‘Saraswats’. 

On the banks of the Saraswati, inspiration met creation and there emerged poetry and literature, art and music, medicine, astronomy, architecture and engineering. Rishis taught the message of the Vedas to the common man. The religion and culture that we have today are the direct descendants of the Sindhu-Saraswati culture. 

From 4.00 am on 26^th January, 2009, over 400 Yatris from all over the world started arriving at Ahmedabad as the Prabhas Teerth Somnath Saraswati Yatra was to commence the next day. At 5.00 pm we assembled in the auditorium to get a briefing on the Yatra by Shri Vivekmam Hattangdi. This was followed by a presentation by Shri Mahesh Kalyanpur on Pratyushotsava scheduled to be held in Talmakiwadi, Mumbai from 11 to 20 February 2009.

Later we had the opportunity of watching a film and presentation by a research scholar, Dr. Jagdish Gandhi who has worked extensively on River Saraswati. His studies have revealed that it is possible to resurrect Saraswati along her Vedic path- he has accordingly prepared a blueprint and presented it to the Central Government and the governments of Haryana, Rajasthan and Gujarat. He said that Saraswati is not a dead river but a lost river because she still has a functional source in the Himalayas. Dr. Gandhi’s film on his expedition from Yamadhara, Himalayas to the Triveni Sangam along the banks of Vedic Saraswati was an eye-opener for all of us. We left the Hall, considerably enlightened on the River Saraswati! 

After Deep Namaskar, Param Pujya Swamiji blessed the Yatris.

The next day at 6.00 am, the Yatris boarded ten buses, each named for a river from Gujarat. Three hours later, we reached Rani-ki-Vav at Anahilwad-Patan, 135 km from Ahmedabad. As we stepped onto the lush green lawns surrounding this magnificent heritage, the view from the top revealed a breathtaking subterranean passageway with stone steps leading to the bottommost (seventh) storey. Tall pillars enhanced the charm of the sunlit brown monument. As we approached nearer, we could appreciate the intricacies on the brackets and columns. Each wall boasts of numerous niches with delicately sculptured figures of Hindu deities- especially of the Avatars of Lord Vishnu (Varaha, Vaman, Ram, and Krishna). A secret passageway of 25 km leads from Rani-ki-Vav to Sidhpur that served as an escape route for the royal family. The visit reinforced our pride for India, advanced in architecture and engineering right from the Harappan days. Breakfast was served here which was sponsored by Shri Narmada Shankar Sharma, Managing Director, GUJCOT.

Next we left for Sidhpur where a comfortable guest room awaited us. After freshening up, we reached the Bindu Sarovar encircled by temples. This is the location where Rishi Kapila preached the Sankhya philosophy to his mother Devruti; Bhagwan Parashuram performed Pind daan for his mother Devi Renuka. It is believed that Kardama Muni, (son of Manu) had made this spot his Karma Bhoomi. Param Pujya Swamiji meditated on the banks for some time before proceeding to the next location.

A special visit was arranged for Param Pujya Swamiji to the banks of River Saraswati and Rudra Mahalaya, an ancient Shiva Temple which now stands in ruins. The roads being very narrow buses could not be taken to this location. Rudra Mahalaya encompasses a temple of Lord Bhavanishankar. 

Some locals turned up to meet Swamiji. We had the delight of hearing Param Pujya Swamiji converse with them in fluent Gujarati effortlessly! While addressing His Pravachan, Param Poojya Swamiji spoke fluently in four languages- Konkani, Hindi, English and Gujarati. 

Sidhpur presented us with a taste of authentic Gujarati food - scrumptious Undiyo, Masala Papad, bhakris and chaas; complete with a mixed fruit ice-cream (sponsored by Shri Nalkur Sripad Rao)!

Before the crack of dawn, we left for Nal Sarovar. The discipline of the Yatris was incredible! They began waking up at 2.30 am to be on time for the scheduled departure of 4.00 am. Barely had we reached Nal Sarovar when the rising Suryadev cast his golden rays on this only repository of Saraswati. We walked the marshy ground along a vast expanse of water with bouts of seaweeds and moss spread like a mat; faraway one could glimpse fishermen rowing boats. More species of birds than you can possibly imagine perched on trees or flew in a beautiful V- formation. Every year, it is estimated over 2 lakh birds from chilly Siberia and other cold European countries seek refuge at Nal Sarovar asking Maa Saraswati to protect them from harsh winters – Maa Saraswati welcomes them. We spotted various species of ducks, dartars, red wattled lapwings, the Purple Moore hens, sandpipers, herons, storks and cattle egrets. 

At 7.00 am we proceeded to an amphitheatre for Dr. Gandhi’s talk. He emphasized that the knowledge that we imbibe during the Yatra must be passed on to the future generations so that they may be proud of their origin and also help in the revival of River Saraswati.  

We started from Nal Sarovar and reached Somnath by nightfall. Enroute lunch was served at Chotila. 

Trustees of Shree Somnath Trust had reserved their VIP Guest House for Param Pujya Swamiji. The General Manager and Deputy General Manager of the Trust welcomed Swamiji and accorded Him with customary honors.

On 29^th, at 5.45 am, we waited breathlessly in a serpentine queue in the sprawling New Somnath Temple premises for the darshan of the oldest Jyotirlinga. Constructed from limestone, the temple stands tall with an intricately carved dome bearing a flag, Trishul and damru. A huge stature of Nandi stands in front of the Shiva Lingam. The main entrance of the Garbha Griha (sanctum sanctorum) faces the east. As soon as the temple gates opened, we rushed inside and occupied our places in the Sabha Mandap. The Sabha Mandap started reverberating with bhajans praising Lord Shiva. The regular visitors declared that never before have they heard such melodious bhajans!

We were over-awed in the divine presence of the Lord of the Universe and eagerly awaited the arrival of Param Pujya Swamiji. The pooja was performed in the presence of Param Pujya Swamiji from 6.30 a.m. Swamiji performed the abhishek of the Holy Lingam followed by Maha-Aarti. We were thrilled to receive a close-up darshan of the Lord as well as Prasadam at the end of the Maha-Aarti. 

The unique feature of the shrine is a pillar that points towards the South Pole. This is a continuous line of water till the South Pole without any land mass in between.

Param Pujya Swamiji and the Yatris then proceeded to the Old Somnath Temple built by Rani Ahalyabai and performed pooja at this ancient temple.  

After breakfast, we advanced to Bhalka Teerth where Lord Krishna was killed by a hunter who mistook him for a deer. Here we have a vigraha of Lord Krishna in the same position as he was shot. We enquired as to why Krishna’s vigraha is in white marble. The poojari replied that after bleeding Lord Krishna’s body had turned pallid– and therefore the Vigraha is in white marble.    

We moved on to Triveni Sangam, where the Rivers Kapila and Hiranya meet River Saraswati to eventually surge into the Sindhu Sagar (Indian Ocean). At 11 am, at the sanctified Triveni Sangam, Swamiji sat deeply absorbed in meditation and performed pooja on behalf of the entire community. The sight of Swamiji performing pooja and Sadhana against the backdrop of the deep blue water lifted our hearts to new levels of serenity.  

Our next destination was the Gita Mandir, where the 18^th Adhyaya of the Bhagwad Geeta has been inscribed on the pillars of the temple. 

At 4.30 pm, Dharma Sabha commenced with a round of Bhajans. We were immersed in the Lord as Swamiji performed Shiva Pooja. After the vote of thanks, Vaidik Sambhavana and Kshamayachana, we were blessed to hear Swamiji’s Ashirvachan. Trustees of Somnath Trust and other members who had helped Ahmedabad Sabha in organising the Yatra were felicitated by Param Poojya Swamiji.    

The grand finale was the Sound and Light show at the Somnath Temple revealing the history of Somnath right from its construction by Somaraja (Moon God). Its long history of destruction and reconstruction were depicted through the voice of the Sagar Dev. 

On the way back to Ahmedabad, we took the route through Gir Forest but couldn’t see the Asiatic Lions in their natural environment as there was a breakdown of buses of the forest department.  

Thus ended a long but unforgettable journey to our very roots! Volunteers from Ahmedabad Sabha require to be complimented for organizing this memorable Yatra. Few in number they astonished every Yatri with their meticulous planning. Over 30 volunteers from outside Ahmedabad Sabha and a score of doctor-Yatris rendered their services to make the Prabhas Teerth Somnath Saraswati Yatra a memorable experience!

 Sapna Ullal, PTSSY Yatri (18 years)

Santa Cruz Sabha, Mumbai.

Email id: sapnaullal@indiatimes.com